Ingredients

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons hot water

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2 pounds small leeks, white and light-green parts only, cut on the bias into 2-inch pieces (5 cups) and thoroughly washed and drained

1/4 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine

1 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

1 1/3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 1/4 pounds skinless meaty white fish, such as halibut, cut into 4 pieces (each about 5 ounces and 1 inch thick)

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/3 cup mixed fresh tender herbs, such as snipped chives, chervil, and tarragon

Flaky sea salt, for serving (optional)

Preparation

Crush saffron and a pinch of kosher salt with a mortar and pestle (or with the side of a large knife) until combined. Stir in hot water; set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large straight-sided skillet or braiser pan over medium. Add leeks; season with kosher salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until bright green and evenly coated, 3 to 4 minutes. Add vermouth and tomatoes; cook 1 minute.

Add saffron water and broth; bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium low and simmer, partially covered, until leeks are completely tender, about 25 minutes.

Season both sides of fish with kosher salt and lemon zest; drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Nestle into leek mixture, cover, and cook until fish is opaque and just cooked through, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir remaining 1 tablespoon butter into broth. To serve, toss together herbs and sprinkle over fish, then drizzle with more oil and season with flaky salt.